Worrying Time for Rosé Producers in Provence

A severe hailstorm damaged between 5, 000 and 7,000 hectares of vineyards in Provence this year, vines which produce top quality Rosé wine. Our local viticulturists are worried that this might have serious effects on wine production this year; even five weeks later they still don’t know what the real impact of the storm will have on their crop and production figures.


At the end of May, the shoots are normally young, sensitive, healthy and beautiful to look at – a source of pride not only for growers, but for us locals. Shoots, the above ground portions of the vine produce leaves, tendrils and fruit.

This year however things were different.  The storm took place early Sunday morning, at 8.15 a.m on  27^th of May;  temperatures dropped from 27° centigrade to a mere 7° with stones the size of golf balls and lasted around thirteen minutes.

Thirteen  minutes too long; some of orchards looked as if an intruder had sprayed them over with a shot gun – a grower’s night mare. This could not have come at a worse time for them; owners reacted quickly though and started cutting back again.

Thankfully weather conditions have improved since – more stable and dry, thanks to the mistral and the fruit are now shyly emerging.

Some 167 cooperative caves and 33 private owners are holding their breath, hoping that the price of Rosé does not increase.  So are the locals. Bulk price for Côte de Provence at present is around 1.50 euros per liter; this is a reasonable price and the quality is exceptional.


This isn’t France’s largest region but more than 80% of Rosé comes from our costal Provence, France’s oldest wine producing area.  A late production seems certain but hopefully wine sales, both domestic and exports will remain stable this year.  

Saffron in Provence

 It’s not unusual to come across clumps of thyme, rosemary shrubs, even wild oregano while rambling in sundrenched rocky Provence but saffron cultivation in Provence?   This piece of news was fascinating -- up until now I’d associated the exotic spice with ancient Eastern treasures.

I already knew three things about exotic saffron; it is one of the most expensive spices around, that you usually add the treads towards the end of the cooking time and that despite its high price many Mediterranean cooks swear that a Bouillabaisse is not a proper Bouillabaisse without saffron. But this precious spice is also the defining ingredient in paellas and risottos; the must have ingredient for many non European dishes.

Thanks to a group of enthusiasts, Saffron cultivation in Provence started up again seven years ago in the little village Le Barroux, at the foot of the Mount Ventoux and today it is one of the largest cultivations in France – 800 square meters.

It was here in the Vaucluse region of Provence that the popes introduced cultivation of the precious spice in the 14 th century; growing continued up until the 17 th century but because of frosts many growers gave up.

Growing saffron is relatively easy; like olives, it thrives on the Mediterranean climate – strong dry summers and cold winters.

Although cultivating this very pretty flower is easy, you have to hand pick the red stigmas of the purple crocus then dry them – one of the main reasons saffron is so expensive. Also the stigmas loose a fair amount of weight during the drying process.  Just think, it takes 200 crocus flowers to produce one gram of saffron.


Harvesting is between October to November, a good time to discover the unique aroma and color and to understand why this culinary treasure sells between 19 and 34 euros per gram.

Tomato: fruit or vegetable?

If you’re a scientist you’d say fruit, after all the tomato is developed from the ovary of the flower but if you’re a cook, you’ll most likely call it a vegetable.

And where do you find it in markets and shops? Among the vegetables of course.
The tomatoes on display at our local market are an absolute feast for the senses –big, small, long and round ones -- all luscious, all juicy and summery. The most popular varieties are the Coeur de boeuf, the thin skinned variety, the Zebra Verte (green striped) the Valentino and Marquise.

Just think, it took 200 years for the humble tomato to be appreciated and accepted into French cuisine. When Spanish explorers first introduced this queen of fruit (or vegetable) it was regarded with much suspicion. Even though they thought tomatoes looked attractive, the people of Provence just couldn’t quite accept eating them. After years of being scrutinized by botanists in the European courts, the humble tomato, shunned for centuries  was finally brought to Paris on July 14, 1790 as part of a celebration of the new republic.

Can you imagine a summer in Provence without tomatoes? It would mean no ratatouille, no stuffed tomatoes, no tomato quiche, no green tomato jam, no tian (a Provençal gratinée with vegetables) the list goes on.
Such a sad thought makes me want to buy lots, but tomatoes are delicate, they must be eaten within a few days and not be hoarded -- unless of course you’re making tomato sauce or coulis.

Another storing tip for your sundrenched vine ripened tomatoes – they must never be put in the fridge – they lose flavor very quickly and become mealy in a couple of days.

Sunday lunch at Trigance

My good friend and chef extraordinaire, Thierry is used to me just dropping in without a reservation, especially at this time of the year. I go there not just because his restaurant is situated in the medieval village Trigance in the spectacular Gorges de Verdon region, but because he is passionate about his métier.  At Lou Cafoucho, food is fresh, flavorsome and reasonably priced.

I’d had  an early morning start and  was exhausted after my three  hour trek so I allowed Thierry to choose my starter.

My Croustillant de Chèvre au Speck came on a bed of lettuce with a light olive oil dressing. This first course -- goat’s cheese wrapped in ham and enclosed in filo pastry was tender and slightly smoky; the warmed cheese and herbs from Provençe made it deliciously creamy. Thierry then made me a pan bagnat – this is one of Nice’s popular dishes, one which many say is a salad niçoise in a sandwich. Not this one; my pan bagnat came with melt in the mouth lamb, goat’s cheese and dried tomato, perfect with my chilled Rosé.

Thierry talked me into having a dessert – rhubarb tiramisu and strawberry coulis; his version of the Italian classic was moist, light and not too sweet.
As most clients had left so we were able to catch up and discuss the menu. I was curious about my first course, the delicate aroma of the ham; what exactly was Speck? Thierry told me that Speck is a specialty from Tyrol, Italy a ham which is similar to Prosciutto. But unlike Prosciutto, Speck is deboned and cold smoked slowly and much less salty. 

And the lamb?

“That came from Brenon, Mme. Rouvier’s farm up in the mountains, and the cheese was made right here in Trigance," he said.

I felt close to to nature today; a day in one of France's most beautiful spots walking around the famous Gorges de Verdon,  then this delicious healthy lunch at Lou Cafoucho.

Lou Cafoucho Tel: 04 94 76 92 08.