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Wednesday, December 26, 2012

A slice of Christmas

 


 

 This is our bûche de Noel, our lovely Christmas Eve dessert. No, not fait maison, I hasten to add but lovingly prepared our neighbor’s son who just happens to be a pâtisserier.

Bûche de Noel translates literally as ‘Christmas log’ the traditional Christmas cake rolled up to look like a log. For many it’s the must – have, that which lights up the Christmas table. Preparing these cakes is serious business everywhere in France with pâtisseries outdoing each other with variations.

I personally find them a little too rich and can only manage a tiny, really tiny slice.

The origin? The history, just as rich as the cake is based on the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year.  Long long ago the Celts would locate and haul back to the house an enormous tree trunk and burn it in the fireplace. The log which was supposed to last the whole evening celebrated the end of winter – the days would be longer now, more sun, and more light a time to give praise.

Then Christianity came along but the practice still continued using smaller logs dressed up with ribbons and greenery.

Bûches de Noel represents this Yule log once burnt in the fireplaces.
 
Special Christmas Greetings to all.

Saturday, December 8, 2012

National Bouillabaisse Day


December 14 will be National Bouillabaisse day- a day dedicated to that delicious slow cooked Provençal dish. And why not celebrate the third week in December? The perfect time for a hearty meal – right in the middle of winter.

Bouillabaisse had a humble beginning. It was once a one- pot meal created by fishermen who could not sell their fish to the restaurants around the port. They would cook the  leftover fish, adding herbs, spices and vegetables all in a cauldron on an open fire. The recipe has been refined and revamped by clever chefs over the years and now the Provencal dish is one of the most complex expensive meals enjoyed by gourmets all over the world.

Chefs serve bouillabaisse in two parts. First, there is the thick spicy warming soup broth which you eat with croutons dipped in rouille, a garlicky mayonnaise. Then they present a variety of fish to their customers – usually five or six which they cup up before you.

Here are some interesting facts about bouillabaisse:

-- They say the name is derived from the method of preparation; the soup is first boiled (bolhir in Provençal) then simmered (abaisser) when the fish is added.

-- In 1980, a couple of restaurant owners around the port of Marseille created the 'Bouillabaisse Charter' so as to protect the traditional recipe. They felt that tourists weren’t getting the genuine dish and that tradition was being lost.

-- To make a real Bouillabaisse, you need at least 5 different fish.

-- Boillabaisse is quite different to a fish soup. You can use any fish for a fish soup whereas you need specific fish for this Provençal delight.

You don’t just decide to make a bouillabaisse; it takes planning and a reasonable amount of time but there are some good recipes these days.  And above all don’t be in a hurry to eat—enjoy every moment.

Happy Bouillabaisse Day to food lovers everywhere.

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Malpasset Dam Disaster


On December 2 1959, fifty three years ago, the people of Fréjus experienced one of the saddest manmade disasters recorded in the history of Provence.

In the evening round about 9 p.m the concrete wall of the Malpasset dam built 12 kms away from the city collapsed and broke killing over 420 people including 135 children. The waters roared down the valleys at about 70kms per hour destroying two villages hitting Fréjus 20 minutes later before finally emptying into the sea.

It was a relatively new dam, constructed only 5 years previously to supply water and irrigation to the region.

Why did this happen?

There was no earthquake; it seems the location of the dam was not suitable, and for this types of structure the rock must be solid – this was not the case.

At the same time construction work started on the new A8 motorway nearby. The guardian of the dam noticed cracks on the dam at the time of blasting but his warnings were ignored. He was convinced all was not right and even moved his family to higher ground.

It was sunny and breezy this Sunday in Fréjus, unlike this ill fated day when it poured and poured with rain. Families were out walking in the area of the dam, others took time to pay tribute to the families at various ceremonies. A new monument was erected December 2 1959 in the Roman arena for the 50th anniversary.

The children of December 2 1959 now have families of their own but they will always remember the tragic night when the damned dam swung open and released the reservoir water – all 52 million tons of it.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Celebrating St. Catherine’s Day


November 25 is St. Catherine’s day in France. Sadly it is hardly celebrated these days and is considered outdated by many.

What is special about this day?

St. Catherine is the patron saint of young unmarried ladies who haved reached 25 and are still unmarried. Called Les Catherinettes, in the past the young ladies sent cards to each other and according to tradition would ask St Catherine to help them find a husband. According to history, a girl’s prayer before reaching 25 would be :

"Donnez-moi, Seigneur, un mari de bon lieu! Qu'il soit doux, opulent, libéral et agréable!" This translates as -- "Lord, give me a well-situated husband. Let him be gentle, rich, generous, and pleasant!"

The prayer changed as the Catherinettes reach 25 to:

Seigneur, un qui soit supportable, ou qui, parmi le monde, au moins puisse passer!"
"Lord, one who's bearable, or who can at least pass as bearable in the world!"

When she reached 30 the prayer had a more drastic tone:

Un tel qu'il te plaira Seigneur, je m'en contente!"  -- "Send whatever you want, Lord; I'll take it!"

Long ago, friends of Catherinettes would make hats for them- the color yellow for faith and green for wisdom.

The Catherinettes wore these all day so they could be recognized and they would be invited out by friends.

But it was the clever, creative and daring milliners who did well here- they got a chance to create, an opportunity to show off their elaborate creations, and they even won competitions.

Much of that is over now – no more pretty hats, no excuse to dress up.

All that is left is the French saying that winter begins on St. Catherine’s Day.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

The 9 Rules for Picking Mushrooms in France

Picking mushrooms is serious business in France. This family ritual can soon develop into a real love affair once you know where to look for the delicacies and can differentiate between those mushrooms you can eat (cepes and chanterelles are common  in this part of Provence) and those which are poisonous.

If you’re like me you’ll welcome the rain we’re having in the South at the moment because after rain comes sunshine. And temperature plus moisture are the two essential conditions for the fungi to grow.

Before you start combing the fields and forests however, you should be aware of some security rules; France has at least 3,000 varieties and only a few of these are edible.  

  1. If you’re new to picking mushrooms in France, then take someone with some experience along. You’ll not only have guidance on the different specimens but you’ll know where to look next time.
  2. Set off early: you’ll beat the crowds, make a day of it and get the best mushrooms.
  3. If you have to go alone make sure you have a mobile just in case you get lost.
  4. Beware of false friends. Although they might look very similar to your mushroom chart they may not be, so make sure you don’t put them in with the edible ones. In France you can take mushrooms to the pharmacy and have the trained pharmacist inspect them.
  5. This might seem obvious but  no matter how tempting, avoid areas where the air might be polluted – road sides, industrial areas etc.
  6. Cut the mushroom at the base using a knife so as not to damage the mycelia and make sure they are a reasonable size.
  7. Don’t put your precious mushrooms in a plastic bag - this will only cause them to spoil – take a cartoon along or even better, a wicker basket.
  8. Make sure you wash your hands well on returning home as you might have touched some poisonous ones.
  9. Keep mushrooms in the fridge, prepare and eat within a day or two.  The mushrooms you pick are best cooked, don’t eat them raw.

And don’t judge a mushroom by it name. Trompettes de la Mort, translated as trumpets of death is one of the earthiest, delicious and most wholesome mushrooms around.

How did it get its name? Only because of its color and trumpet shape.


Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Fêtes des Châtaignes – Chestnut Festivals


It’s the season of fêtes in France.

We’re lucky in Provence; it’s a great place to celebrate these country festivities.

The late autumn sun was unusually warm here on Sunday, an extra incentive for all of the 613 inhabitants of Les Mayons to celebrate the annual chestnut festival.

This is deep Provence, a village surrounded by cork, olive and chestnut trees – a village steeped in tradition, no glamour here just good old fashion heart and soul seduction.

Chestnut trees grow wild in this area of the Massif des Maures where for hundreds of years chestnuts used to be a staple food for the country folks; they made flour, and beer from chestnuts and fed the peelings to the animals.

Today, chestnuts are included in many menus in France. It can be chopped and mixed in with a salad, make a hearty yet delicate winter soup. It’s the sweetness of chestnuts that makes it so decadent in our desserts, so enticing in liqueur de Châtaigne.

But why do we say marron glacés for those wonderful crystallized chestnuts and Vin de Châtaignes for wine made with chestnuts? They are after all made from the same fruit.

It has to do with the biologic aspect, the separation of the fruit.

Sweet chestnuts produced from the chestnut tree can be either marrons or châtaignes depending on the separation – if the fruit has a partition it’s called a châtaigne, if it’s  contained as a single piece, then it’s a marron.




Châtaigne or marron, nothing beats the aroma of fresh roasted chestnuts out in the open especially on a fine day in October.


Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Semaine du goût -- a week of taste

Semaine du goût translates as a week of taste.

What it means is that all of this week (October 15 to 19) the French will be talking even more about taste and gastronomy focusing on the following core values:
  • Educating children and the general public about real food as opposed to fast food.
  • Promoting diversity of taste.
  • Product information and origins.
  • Promoting a balanced lifestyle through a healthy and balanced diet.

During the week food professionals will be giving demonstrations in schools, restaurants will be offering special prices on their fixed menus and workshops will be organized – cooking workshops, demonstrations and exhibitions.

The aim of semaine du goût?

To revive our taste for flavor and to take pleasure in eating. This is all good as France is beginning to have a problem with obesity -- statistics show that there are now seven million overweight people in the hexagon.

Semaine du goût started in 1990, a French initiative which the Swiss adopted in 2001 and which is now practised in quite a few countries.

This week of taste is definitely gaining popularity in France as this time last year it was hardly talked about.

Children become hooked at an early age on food so why not start at nursery school?
I popped in to our local maternity school to see what activities had been planned and what they were having for lunch on Monday.

Yes, they were having a few guests later on in the week; chefs who were coming to give demonstrations, to meet and talk to the toddlers about food, to discuss what they liked and what they didn’t like.

I also had a look at their menu for the day: 

Monday: 
Salade verte/ Roquefort/ pommes et noix (green salad/ Roquefort/ apples/ nuts.
Gratin de poisson ; Poelée de legumes (baked gratin fish, vegetables).
Pâtisserie.
                                   
A healthy start to the week. 

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Olive Festival in Ollioules

Every year around this time, the medieval village Ollioules in Haute Provence celebrates all things olive -- a two - day olive festival – a time to celebrate with food, music and scenery.

This year, celebrations kicked off on Saturday 6th October.

Traffic was closed off for the weekend; numerous stalls lined the old streets in the different squares; all welcoming, all bright, all very Provencal.

Olive oil producers welcomed the opportunity to show off their range of extra virgin, visitors delighted in sampling and buying not only olives and olive oils but also the wide range of olive specialties from Provence.



                       
                           

This was also the perfect venue to have the professionals answer all the olive oil questions:

  • Can you fry in olive oil?
  • How do you use fruity green, fruity black and fruity ripe in the kitchen?
  • What is the best way to store olive oil?
  • What do you look for on the label of a bottle of extra virgin?

This year there was even a competition for kids under the age of 14 on how to make aioli; the kids pounded their garlic while the adults encouraged and cheered.

There were other stalls of course, other demonstrations, all in keeping with the Provencal theme – the love of the people for tradition.

So what's aioli?


The name ‘Aioli’ is formed from the French ail (garlic) and oli (Provencal dialect for oil)

Aioli is a garlic mayonnaise that features in many traditional Provencal recipes but that also makes a delicious dip when served with a selection of raw or lightly cooked vegetables.


Saturday, September 29, 2012

Finding Napoleon in Ajaccio

I used to say airily that Ajaccio was just another capital and would head off either to the north or south of the island every time I visited Corsica. This visit  however, I had a plan - to find Napoleon in Ajaccio. He was after all one of the first emperors of France, a military general who revolutionized military history and this was his place of birth.

Corsicans are proud of their famous son; dedicating historic monuments, the names of streets, his birth house opened up as a museum. Even the main airport in Corsica called Aéroport d'Ajaccio Napoléon Bonaparte evokes memories of the idealist whose coming to power ended an old regime in France.

The great man was born August 15 1769 in Maison Bonaparte not far from Ajaccio’s cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary; it is said that his mother started labour pains while attending mass. Letizia named her second child after an uncle who had died only a few months before fighting for independence against the French.





Napoleon spent the first years of his life in this large house in one of the city’s narrow street before setting off to mainland France when he was nine for schooling.      

Not much remains today in this residence classed as a historic monument  as unfortunately  the house was pillaged when the Bonaparte family had to leave in a hurry because of the political situation -  only a couple of saloons, some marble busts and a few paintings are left.

To Napoleon 1 and his brothers, Corsica remembers you with gratitude; translated, this is what the commemorative plaque inscription on a fine grandiose monument in the Place de Gaulle says. It shows Napoleon on horseback dressed in Roman costume surrounded by standing statues of his brothers. The view of the gulf of Ajaccio from this square on a fine day is truly stunning,

In the old town, near the market square, Place Foch is a magnificent statue of the Napoleon surrounded by four lions. This impressive statue shows Napoleon draped in a Roman toga.

Then there is the monumental assembly at the Place d’ Austerlitz inaugurated in August 1938.

Here is an inclined stone plane leading to a pedestal on which stands a statue of Napoleon watching over the city. At the base of the pyramid are two eagles bearing the dates of the birth and death of the emperor.

What many visitors don't  know though is that to the left of the statue are a few large rocks forming a cave. Surrounded by olive trees, legend has it that as a boy Napoleon would escape here and hide in what the Ajaccians now call the Grotte de Napoleon. Although this might be a legend you can well imagine young Napoleon escaping here - to his  dreaming place - far from the other seven siblings – a young boy planning his future.

He might have been small in stature but the little man certainly changed the face of Europe.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Historic Ajaccio


My love affair with Corsica started at high school. The stories about vendettas and family feuds of the village people who lived high up in the mountains encouraged me to learn French, the pride and passion of the Corsican people for their country, I found intriguing.

Later, I discovered Dorothy Carrington also known as Lady Rose Carrington, the travel writer and historian who arrived in Corsica in 1948, and stayed. Her books, papers and articles on different aspects of life, culture and history of Corsica showed just how much she understood the Corsican way of life, the complex history of the country and above all the Corsican people.

Rose Carrington chose to settle in Ajaccio, the largest town and best known as Napoleon’s birthplace. Although much of the maquis – the evergreen bush that covers Corsica has been cleared, the numerous oak and olive trees, the narrow streets lined with picturesque Mediterranean architecture and the rich history of Ajaccio make it an attractive capital.

What I particularly like though, is a wander through the market place then a leisurely cup of coffee in one of the cafés by the port --  the best place to observe the Ajaccians, especially the older ones and sometimes I’m lucky, I get to hear the latest on the political scene – always a hot subject in Corsica.

September is a good time  to visit Ajaccio; the locals have more time and patience as most of the tourists have gone, the weather is not as stifling as in the summer months but still extremely pleasant and fares are less costly.

The most relaxed way of getting to Ajaccio from mainland France is by boat; the Italian ferry service Corsica Ferries is reliable, clean and comfortable.
It's such a pity though that most people head for Cap Corse or the southern tip Bonifaccio as soon as the ferry hits port; historic Ajaccio certainly deserves a day or two.

My next post will look at Napoleon in Corsica. 


A market stall in Ajaccio

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Stay Zen -- C’est La Rentrée

The  rentrée in France is an annual ritual that hits the nation around the end of August and continues until at least mid September.

There’s no real translation for this word, no one word to convey the real significance of the rentrée and you have to live here to truly understand this ritual.

The rentrée is an established French tradition, meaning a return after a period of inactivity, a re-entry if you like. It means that the 2 month holiday break is over so it’s back to school for the kids. But there’s more to this than just the Anglo- Saxon 'back to school' season because it applies to work, politics and life in general.

Few nations have such long summer holidays as the French – four to six weeks or so when everything is closed, kids are on holiday and the population has either gone to be beach, their country homes or the cooler mountain regions.

Not only is there rentrée de classe, rentré  scolaire and  rentré Universitaire for the various teaching establishments but  politicians also herald in a  new political season; this is called  rentrée politique when the  President and his ministers come  back ready to surprise the nation with their new policies.

For many of us, it’s a new beginning, a promise to improve, a time to enroll in new classes, start new activities. And why not?

In Paris, they’re already suffering from the rentrée blues; girlie magazines are running stories on how to de-stress and make sure their readers stick to their rentrée resolutions.

But we in the South are still hanging on; the weather is fabulous, the tourists have gone and with them the long queues at the boulangeries. It’s the vendange season in Provence; a time for sunshine and bringing in the grapes-- one of our busiest times.

No time for rentrée blues here.

                                                    Bonne  rentrée a tout le monde.

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Slow travel with Le train des Pignes

We were looking to do something completely different, to beat the heat and a change from the crowed beaches of the busy Côte d’ Azur.

We found the answer – a slow train ride through the mountains to the villages in the foothills of the French Alps, the good old fashion way – steam, of course.

This is a private narrow gauge railway (one meter only) hauled by an authentic steam locomotive and run by volunteers. Pignes is the French word for pines. The story is that they ran out of coal one day and had to resort to pine cones to fuel the engine.

We boarded the locomotive at Puget-Thenier at 10.45,chugged uphill through some spectacular scenery; deep river and valleys all the way up  to our first stop, the fortified village Entrevaux  where the crew shoveled in more coal while the passengers admired the  high fortress in the distance.

The steam whistle blew again calling the passengers back unto the train to our final stop. The scenery after Entrevaux is just as spectacular; the black locomotive pulled the four passenger cars winding its way between trees and rocks before we lumbered into Anot at midday.

A five minute walk from the station lead to the medieval village listed a Village et Cité de Caractere. The town, set at an altitude of 700 meters is surrounded by some stunning large boulders with many houses built against the rocks, called Gres d’Anot. The streets are narrow in the old part of the town; so many little details to admire such as the doors and knockers of the houses, the narrow passages.

Le Train des Pignes is a great way to take in some pure mountain air as long as you quickly shut the windows when you hear the whistle signaling the approaching tunnels.
I had a quick chat with the crew before we left - even though their lovely blue overalls were coal covered  they were already looking forward to next Sunday.


This little train runs every Sunday from May to October;


The fortress  in Entrevaux seen from the train

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Chartreuse de la Verne


Some visitors to Provence don’t need to chase a tan at the seaside, instead they like to check out the lesser known areas, explore the historical and cultural sites inland.

 These guests I take to La Chartreuse de la Verne, a Carthusian monastery tucked away in the Massif des Maures, one of the oldest and wildest sets of hills of the Var department. There’s no train to Collobrières, the nearest town and busses are very infrequent so the best way to get there is by car; cycling, I leave to the very fit.

 La Chartreuse de la Verne, 11 km from Collobrières is perched on a rocky headland completely isolated in amongst a thick hilly forest of pine, oak, cork and chestnut trees. The set of buildings mostly rebuilt during the 17th and 18th centuries are 155 m long, 85 m. wide with walls 425 m high was constructed in 1174 on the site of a pagan temple. This monastery had a turbulent past - plundered in 1174, wrecked by the Protestants during the religious wars and occupied by the Huguenots in 1577. After each of these destructions, the dedicated picked up the pieces and rebuilt. In 1790, after the French Revolution, the contents were sequestered and the monks had to abandon the monastery.
Looking around today at this imposing structure, and the beauty of the forest, it’s hard to imagine that there were at least three serious fires here -- one in the 13th century and the others n 1318 and 1721.



La Chartreuse was listed as a historic monument in 1921 and today about 30 sisters of the monastic order of Bethlehem live there.

    


Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Cooking in Provence


Madeleine Montebert from Cooking in Provence says: No one is born a cook, one learns by doing.
This talented lady started her cooking adventure  as a child watching and stirring the pots in the kitchen; today she runs hands on practical  classes based on traditional home cooking from her Provencal hideaway, the hilltop village of Crillon Le Brave.

And thanks to Madeleine, An olive Oil Tour of France, my new e book includes some healthy olive oil recipes. One particularly seasonal dish I’ve come to appreciate this summer is the Provencal Tian.

A tian is a shallow earthen ware gratin dish and the food cooked in it. A tian makes good use of the Provencal seasonal vegetables --  courgettes, tomatoes, and aubergines all neatly arranged in layers.                
Madeleine includes minced lamb in her recipe. Not only is a tian beautiful to look at but with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and Provencal herbs, you can’t go wrong --  this is a perfect healthy one dish  meal.

And did you know you can use olive oil for making cakes?

The French yogurt cake recipe is a simple classic made perfectly moist not with butter but  with extra virgin, a cake that is often the first thing that French children learn to bake. It is a childhood classic because children do not need to be able to read any scale to make it because the “pot” used to measure the ingredients is the first yogurt pot, emptied, rinsed and dried.
But Madeleine adds two ingredients to the classical yogurt cake recipe -- quince and almonds; making this Provencal style yogurt cake with quince totally irresistible.


 1 quince
 2 pots of plain yogurt
 1 pot of sugar
 2 pots of flour
 2 pots of ground almonds
1 pot of olive oil
4 eggs
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 lemon zest


Peel quarter and core the quince then place in a saucepan with a spoonful of sugar and cover with water. Bring to the boil, cook uncovered until tender.

Preheat the oven to 180° C.
In a large mixing bowl whisk eggs, sugar until quite pale.
Stir in the yogurt, olive oil and lemon zest until all the ingredients are fully incorporated.
Add the flour, baking powder and almonds.
Grease a baking tin and pour in the batter.
Arrange the quince on top.
Bake for about 45 minutes checking the center of the cake with a fork to make sure that the cake is cooked.
Leave for 10 minutes or so before removing from the cake tin.

This recipe is also included in An Olive Oil Tour of France.

Cooking in Provence:  http://www.cookinginprovence.fr/




Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Soap from Marseille


Unique legendary Savon de Marseille --Soaps from Marseille have been around for a long time - since the sixteenth century.

What makes them unique?
They are versatile, rooted in tradition and safe.  Here are some extracts from my eBook, An olive Oil Tour of France which will be published soon.

Soap crafters have been making Savon de Marseille  in France’s oldest city, Marseille, since the middle Ages.  This is no ordinary soap, wrapped up in pretty packaging. These are big blocks of all purpose soap used for generations in France for everything from household cleaning and laundry to beautifying the body. 

The green Marseille soap made from pure olive oil is today recognized by dermatologists the world over for its hypoallergenic and antibacterial qualities.

The Sérail Savonnerie de Marseille run by Daniel Boetto is, however, the only soap maker left that makes authentic Marseille soap. This family business started up by Daniel’s father is one where true artisans have been using the same cauldron and the same strict traditional methods since 1949. At Sérail they make a liquid detergent, and two types of soaps, a white soap made from palm oil used for household purposes and the green variety made with 60% ordinary olive oil obtained mostly from Greece as regrettably France does produce enough olive oil.

How do they make their legendary soap?

The soap master burns a mixture of olive oil, vegetable oil, soda ash  and salt water  in a large cauldron,  a chemical reaction takes place turning the  mixture into soap; once the soap is settled, it can be stamped and dry.

Although it sounds easy, you can’t just follow a recipe, it requires great skill to be a soap master, not something   you can learn overnight.

It took oil Daniel Boetto 6 years to learn the trade from his father.


Saturday, June 30, 2012

Worrying Time for Rosé Producers in Provence


A severe hailstorm damaged between 5, 000 and 7,000 hectares of vineyards in Provence this year, vines which produce top quality Rosé wine. Our local viticulturists are worried that this might have serious effects on wine production this year; even five weeks later they still don’t know what the real impact of the storm will have on their crop and production figures.


At the end of May, the shoots are normally young, sensitive, healthy and beautiful to look at – a source of pride not only for growers, but for us locals. Shoots, the above ground portions of the vine produce leaves, tendrils and fruit.

This year however things were different.  The storm took place early Sunday morning, at 8.15 a.m on  27th of May;  temperatures dropped from 27° centigrade to a mere 7° with stones the size of golf balls and lasted around thirteen minutes.

Thirteen  minutes too long; some of orchards looked as if an intruder had sprayed them over with a shot gun – a grower’s night mare. This could not have come at a worse time for them; owners reacted quickly though and started cutting back again.

Thankfully weather conditions have improved since – more stable and dry, thanks to the mistral and the fruit are now shyly emerging.

Some 167 cooperative caves and 33 private owners are holding their breath, hoping that the price of Rosé does not increase.  So are the locals. Bulk price for Côte de Provence at present is around 1.50 euros per liter; this is a reasonable price and the quality is exceptional.


This isn’t France’s largest region but more than 80% of Rosé comes from our costal Provence, France’s oldest wine producing area.  A late production seems certain but hopefully wine sales, both domestic and exports will remain stable this year.  

Monday, June 25, 2012

Saffron in Provence


 It’s not unusual to come across clumps of thyme, rosemary shrubs, even wild oregano while rambling in sundrenched rocky Provence but saffron cultivation in Provence?   This piece of news was fascinating -- up until now I’d associated the exotic spice with ancient Eastern treasures.
I already knew three things about exotic saffron; it is one of the most expensive spices around, that you usually add the treads towards the end of the cooking time and that despite its high price many Mediterranean cooks swear that a Bouillabaisse is not a proper Bouillabaisse without saffron. But this precious spice is also the defining ingredient in paellas and risottos; the must have ingredient for many non European dishes.

Thanks to a group of enthusiasts, Saffron cultivation in Provence started up again seven years ago in the little village Le Barroux, at the foot of the Mount Ventoux and today it is one of the largest cultivations in France – 800 square meters.
It was here in the Vaucluse region of Provence that the popes introduced cultivation of the precious spice in the 14 th century; growing continued up until the 17 th century but because of frosts many growers gave up.
Growing saffron is relatively easy; like olives, it thrives on the Mediterranean climate – strong dry summers and cold winters.

Although cultivating this very pretty flower is easy, you have to hand pick the red stigmas of the purple crocus then dry them – one of the main reasons saffron is so expensive. Also the stigmas loose a fair amount of weight during the drying process.  Just think, it takes 200 crocus flowers to produce one gram of saffron.


Harvesting is between October to November, a good time to discover the unique aroma and color and to understand why this culinary treasure sells between 19 and 34 euros per gram.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Tomato: fruit or vegetable?


If you’re a scientist you’d say fruit, after all the tomato is developed from the ovary of the flower but if you’re a cook, you’ll most likely call it a vegetable.
And where do you find it in markets and shops? Among the vegetables of course.
The tomatoes on display at our local market are an absolute feast for the senses –big, small, long and round ones -- all luscious, all juicy and summery. The most popular varieties are the Coeur de boeuf, the thin skinned variety, the Zebra Verte (green striped) the Valentino and Marquise.

Just think, it took 200 years for the humble tomato to be appreciated and accepted into French cuisine. When Spanish explorers first introduced this queen of fruit (or vegetable) it was regarded with much suspicion. Even though they thought tomatoes looked attractive, the people of Provence just couldn’t quite accept eating them. After years of being scrutinized by botanists in the European courts, the humble tomato, shunned for centuries  was finally brought to Paris on July 14, 1790 as part of a celebration of the new republic.

Can you imagine a summer in Provence without tomatoes? It would mean no ratatouille, no stuffed tomatoes, no tomato quiche, no green tomato jam, no tian (a Provençal gratinée with vegetables) the list goes on.
Such a sad thought makes me want to buy lots, but tomatoes are delicate, they must be eaten within a few days and not be hoarded -- unless of course you’re making tomato sauce or coulis.

Another storing tip for your sundrenched vine ripened tomatoes – they must never be put in the fridge – they lose flavor very quickly and become mealy in a couple of days.




Sunday, June 17, 2012

Sunday lunch at Trigance


My good friend and chef extraordinaire, Thierry is used to me just dropping in without a reservation, especially at this time of the year. I go there not just because his restaurant is situated in the medieval village Trigance in the spectacular Gorges de Verdon region, but because he is passionate about his métier.  At Lou Cafoucho, food is fresh, flavorsome and reasonably priced.
I’d had  an early morning start and  was exhausted after my three  hour trek so I allowed Thierry to choose my starter.





My Croustillant de Chèvre au Speck came on a bed of lettuce with a light olive oil dressing. This first course -- goat’s cheese wrapped in ham and enclosed in filo pastry was tender and slightly smoky; the warmed cheese and herbs from Provençe made it deliciously creamy. Thierry then made me a pan bagnat – this is one of Nice’s popular dishes, one which many say is a salad niçoise in a sandwich. Not this one; my pan bagnat came with melt in the mouth lamb, goat’s cheese and dried tomato, perfect with my chilled Rosé.

Thierry talked me into having a dessert – rhubarb tiramisu and strawberry coulis; his version of the Italian classic was moist, light and not too sweet.
As most clients had left so we were able to catch up and discuss the menu. I was curious about my first course, the delicate aroma of the ham; what exactly was Speck? Thierry told me that Speck is a specialty from Tyrol, Italy a ham which is similar to Prosciutto. But unlike Prosciutto, Speck is deboned and cold smoked slowly and much less salty. 

And the lamb?

“That came from Brenon, Mme. Rouvier’s farm up in the mountains, and the cheese was made right here in Trigance," he said.
I felt close to to nature today; a day in one of France's most beautiful spots walking around the famous Gorges de Verdon,  then this delicious healthy lunch at Lou Cafoucho.

Lou Cafoucho Tel: 04 94 76 92 08.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

A Cooperative Olive Oil Mill in Provence

Research into the Cooperative Olive Oil set- up in France took me to a wonderful medieval Provençal village in the Haute Provence called Ollioules, about 5 km  inland between Toulon and Aix en Provence. This is a great spot for discovering the beaches on the Provençal coast but I wanted to check out the local cooperative mill run by volunteers.
The olive oil mill called Cooperative Ollioules might be small but this is where growers, owners of both big and small domaines take their fruit to be processed into wonderful healthy extra virgin olive oil. Respecting olive oil Provençal tradition, the olives here are mostly handpicked and processed within hours.
Every year, the town celebrates Fêtes de l’Olivier de L’Ollioules – three fun filled days of concerts, exhibitions, conferences and of an impressive display of food. Growers, professionals and amateurs all have something to learn from the Olive oil experts and technicians who are there to inform.
What I felt strongly at this cooperative mill though, was the dedication and pure enjoyment the growers felt about their very own olive oil produced in their own region – the magic of Provençal terroir.
In Ollioules, they’re not too bothered about in formation packed labels and beautiful bottles; they recognize and care deeply about their liquid gold, their Provençal heritage.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

New Year in Provincial Provençe


In my Provençal village the air was cold the last day of the year, but that didn’t stop the folk; they were busy, darting in and out of shops, fretting behind steering wheels – they had yet another festive occasion to prepare – New Year’s Eve  called in France, Saint Sylvestre.
The feast, Le Réveillon was an excuse to have more top notch food like oysters, fois gras and champagne but who’s complaining?
Oysters are a must- have for our New Year celebration. My husband acted as oysterman for the evening so I poured myself a glass of white wine, watched and encouraged as he leaned over the kitchen sink. This way I could make sure there was no slurping behind my back.
 He opened each oyster carefully and cleverly, throwing out the first water; this allows the oyster to make more juice – no rinsing of course.
Those who love good food, drink and tradition appreciate this time of the year because the festivities just seem to follow on.
Another tradition is the celebration of Epiphany.  Yet Another excuse for gourmands to get together; this time to share a Galette des Rois (King’s cake)
There are two versions of this scrumptious cake; luckily we can get them both here.
In the Provence the galette is a made of brioche dough, crown shaped and decorated with glazed crystallized fruit.
The other galette, often referred to as the Parisian Galette is made with puff pastry and stuffed with frangipane.
A galette from the patisserie will come with a cardboard crown to be worn by the lucky person who gets the fève in their slice of cake.
What is this fève?
It’s a small porcelain figure, dropped into the cake before baking. The French word fève means dried bean. Up until the nineteenth century, a fava bean was used instead of a figurine to symbolize fertility and renewal.
Patisseries, boulangeries and supermarkets will stop selling these galettes from February 2nd so we’re making this our special Sunday treat all of January.